You have to press the directional inputs kind of hard, but on the flip side this controller has a switch located at the bottom to help with DP inputs. The Dpad is stiff and hurts your thumb after prolonged use. I loved everything about this controller. The controller is light, sturdy, and fit perfectly in my hands. It has flat L1/R1 and R2/L2 buttons for quick inputs. You could press two buttons (Square and Triangle, etc) with ease with just your thumb! The symbol buttons are perfectly spaced away from the Share/Options buttons so no need to worry about pressing other buttons by mistake. Well, the symbol buttons were large and soft to press. What made this controller great you might ask? The HORI Fighting Commander! This could have been THE best fightpad on the market in my opinion if it just had some more improvements. Now my next steps are to figure out how to compile this assembly code myself so that I can start debugging and updating it.Behold! This was my go-to fightpad for everything Street Fighter. (sorry im a newb) Also are these BOJACK 0.1uF caps suitable for the C1 in the schematic? Are these in these recent photos you posted? I'm not sure how to place these caps in "parallel". 8BitDo Wireless Receiver incorrectly maps buttons start/pause action on mentioned some 22pF caps parallel to the crystal. MNEMO's USB Host mod only receives single axis directional inputs. While testing I found a few bugs I will need to debug. Just out of curiosity I went back to the 8mhz crystal and it also works. Frequency 8.0- MHz Start-up time: 14 CK + 0 ms.
I didn't see an option for 20mhz on the AVR fuse calculator website. So i guess you need to set up fuses to use it after all There is a crystal soldered underneath of my original board - 20mhz one with some 22pF caps parallel to it Perhaps this will help someone building it Sbis PIND,2 wait for clock line going low
Rjmp TDO_Send_l1 wait for clock line going high
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